Samstag, 31. August 2013

Piranha growing

just back from the woods with new stuff in petto :)

one week ago we participated on the 4th magic wood clean up day. walking through the woods cleaning some shit, we came across some of the local young guns trying hard on the piranha block. and as always when standing in front of this really nice wall, i had this shy look up high on the mossy part that follows the finishing hold of piranha. actually not too shy this time, because having done ARKANUM made me realize that this one could really be possible! i mean, for years, when standing there we were like "yeah, looks possible, why not, someone should/could do it".
so, on this day i decided to take the rope with me next time and check it out. 

just an hour or so later, being crazy about having this new project in mind and telling some other locals about it, they told me that someone already did what i decided had to be done soon... okay. this didn't take the wind out of my wings at all, because now i knew for sure it was possible and for sure a big line i wanted to do as long as i was in "the mode"...

so, some days ago i fixed my rope on the tree on top of the wall, finding evidence someone already rappelled down the wall some when in the past. even parts of where i figured one would top out were pretty clean already. but going lower on the wall there was moss all over and i found the rock under it to be of a pretty brittle nature. i went on cleaning...

the final sequence i figured out went past some foot and hand holds that weren't really solid at first. so for me a clear indicator no one climbed that thing through that direct sequence i worked out. but maybe they used another sequence more to the left or just liked the thrill of climbing highball terrain using mossy and brittle holds?!?

on the second day i found it dry, finished cleaning, and as one more buddy came along with one additional pad i decided to give it a go. luckily i am able to walk the piranha part on pretty much every try, so i knew it was all about the following transition part that leads to a stable position standing on the finishing hold of piranha. from there its not too hard anymore. i went trough first go.

this line is in the exact same style as ARKANUM, but slightly easier. some hard moves to a good hold, strange transition part leading to stable resting position standing on this good hold, then some delicate climbing to easy topout. so, to everyone with a fable for BIG lines, go check this one out! then go on and check the other one out! these are some really great climbs!!!

for now i take the piranha extension as a first ascent and call it BABEL FISH. maybe i can gather some info about others having done it etc etc

as i felt pretty solid on the piranha moves, i also did the left extension the other day. its a fun route that goes all the way to the left and tops out into easier terrain. if you are able to do the piranha, you should go for this one too! perfect extension to the perfect problem :)

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